By Dr. Dondi Dahlgaard, Southpaws Veterinary Specialists and Emergency Center

Everyone dreads it: having to make a late night trip to the Emergency Room.  Not only are you often paralyzed with fear for the wellbeing of your pet, you are also often worried about what will be coming when you get the bill. There are several emergencies that we commonly see in the ER that can be prevented with minimal effort which will save your pet a lot of pain, your heart a lot of ache, and your wallet a lot of money!  For example, walking your dog on a leash and making sure that your yard is escape proof can prevent your dog from being hit by a car.  If you own a kitty, keeping it indoors can also prevent similar accidents as well as limit exposure to fights, Feline Leukemia and FIV.

Toxicities are also an unfortunately familiar scenario in the ER.  A lot of pets get into dangerous substances when their owners aren’t looking.   Some of our more common drug exposures/toxicities include chocolate (causes GI and neurologic signs), Rimadyl and Advil (cause kidney and liver failure), glucosamine (causes GI and liver problems), mushroom ingestion (causes neurologic signs and liver problems), marijuana (causes dilated pupils, dull mentation, fever and urine leakage), and antifreeze (causes vomiting, dull mentation then kidney failure).  Being aware of these common toxins and keeping them away from your pet is such an easy thing to do.  Keep all potential toxins off the floor – and reachable counters.  Walk your dog on a leash so they can’t scrounge through garbage on the street.  Watch them closely at dog parks or at your neighbor’s homes.  Of course, some accidents do happen.  So, if your pet should ingest any of the following, please contact either your veterinarian, the closest emergency clinic, Georgetown Poison Control (202-625-3333 – consultation is free), or ASPCA Animal Poison Control (888-426-4435 – $65 charge for consultation).

Toxins aren’t the only potential ingestible problem.  Dogs and cats like to eat things that they shouldn’t. Know your pet and puppy or kitty proof your house.  We commonly have to take pets to surgery to remove socks, diapers, bathroom trash contents, dental floss, small toys, panty hose, underwear and carpet.  If your pet has a tendency to get into things or chew on your stuff, you need to be really vigilant.  Utilize closets, cabinets or cans with closed lids to contain things, and crate or confine your pet when you’re not able to supervise them closely – both when you’re not home or when you’re asleep.

Just remember, a little bit of effort can go a long way towards keeping your pet safe and avoiding a very expensive trip the emergency room.

by Heather Morris, CPDT-KA

As a trainer, I often get asked about what kind of food I feed my dogs.  I feel that is a loaded question for me.  Not only am I a certified dog trainer, but I’m also a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America so food is my other passion.  As you can imagine, I pull out all the stops when it comes to meal time for my pups.  There are quite possibly times when my Dals eat better than I do.  So the short answer to this question is I feed a diet that is based on the ancestral diet, or more commonly referred to as the RAW diet or the BARF diet (Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food).  If you are unfamiliar with these terms, just think what would a wolf eat?  After all, dogs are descendants of wolves, right?

Don’t worry!  I’m not about to suggest that everyone feed their dog this way as it’s a huge commitment and should be well thought out before deciding to take the plunge.  However, I am going to suggest that you take the time to read the label on all food and treats you give your dog.  We count calories, watch fat intake, and analyze ingredient lists on food labels before deciding to buy a certain product.  So why shouldn’t we do the same thing for our canine family members? Today’s dog owner has no problem spending hundreds and even thousands of dollars on dog daycare, midday walks, training, grooming, etc.  Why should nutrition be an afterthought?

So before you buy your next bag of food or pick up a special treat for Fido, here are a few things you should keep in mind.

Ingredients listed on a food label are listed in order of amount by weight.  The first ingredient listed will be the most prevalent with the last ingredient being minimally present. Ideally, you want the first few ingredients to be named animal proteins such as chicken, lamb, venison, herring, etc. Meals should also be named, example chicken meal, fish meal.

Animal proteins are much healthier for dogs than their counterpart vegetable proteins such as corn, wheat, and soy.  Vegetable proteins are often used in dog food because these ingredients are cheaper for pet food manufacturers.  Instead look for whole grains such as quinoa, oats, barley, brown rice, millet, etc. Note that most RAW diets exclude grains from their menu (which is another topic for a different day).

Look for foods that contain whole fruits and vegetables.  Fresh food ingredients have essential vitamins, antioxidants, and enzymes that are essential for maintaining bodily health.

Of course local organic ingredients are desirable as they are good for our dogs and promote sustainability, a plus for the planet.

Avoid foods that contain added sweeteners, colors, and artificial preservatives (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).  Artificial preservatives have been linked to cancer.  Choose natural preservatives such as vitamin E, vitamin C, and rosemary extract instead.  The color is just for us, do you honestly think dogs care what color their food is after seeing the stuff they put in their mouth?

Look for foods that readily provide manufacturer contact information incase you have more specific questions.  You should be able to locate an address, phone number, and website on the bag.  Reputable manufactures aren’t trying to hide anything!

These are just a few tips to help you become an educated consumer.  Obviously, the topic of canine nutrition has much more depth then this and there are many great resources that you may want to reference to learn more.  One of my personal favorites include, The Whole Dog Journal which is a monthly publication that covers dog care and training.  It’s simply a must have for any dog owner!

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Heather Morris, CPDT-KA is the owner of Spot On Training, LLC and lives on Capitol Hill with her two Dalmatians.  Spot On Training offers private training sessions, puppy class, FREE puppy play, phone consultations, and mini series targeted on specific behaviors.  To learn more visit  ”http://www.spotondogtrainingdc.com“

Nothing beats the joy of seeing a “new puppy visit” on the schedule at our clinic. During these visits, new parents to puppies often have lots of questions to make sure they are doing everything just right for their new puppy. Often overlooked is the topic of infectious diseases and what we can do to protect puppies from becoming sick. One of the new trends today seems to be a “less is more” approach to vaccinations, but in the case of puppy vaccines, skipping vaccine boosters may result in inadequate immunity to a number of viruses and even possibly death.

How Vaccinal Immunity Works

Maternal milk from the first days of nursing offers protection via antibodies from the mother dog’s immune system for up to 4 months, but after this the puppy is only protected by vaccines or by natural exposure (and recovery from) viruses and bacteria. Vaccines given prior to 8 weeks of age are typically rendered ineffective by the puppy’s circulating maternal antibodies.  Because shelters often find puppies without their mothers and without any knowledge of prior vet history, they usually give the first puppy booster as soon as the puppy arrives at the shelter – sometimes as early as 6 weeks of age.  They are then given at 2 to 3 week intervals by the shelter, rescue and, eventually, the new owners’ veterinarian.  It is important that the vaccines be given in a series of at least 3 boosters (usually about 3 to 4 weeks apart), as repeated exposure to these pathogens builds the immune system.  The immune system is naïve initially, but should be mature by the time the vaccine series is finished, so a good response to the vaccines will result in complete protection.

Core Vaccination Protocols

Core vaccines are those which the veterinary community in that region has deemed basic and necessary to prevent disease outbreaks. Other vaccines may be “elective” in nature, and these elective vaccines are usually against rarely seen or non-fatal diseases. In our area, Distemper, Parvovirus, Hepatitis/Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza Virus, Bordetella Bronchiseptica/Kennel Cough, and Rabies are undoubtedly core vaccines.  We vaccinate against them even though they are less common these days because  kennel cough is extremely contagious, Parvovirus can live in the environment for a very long time, and Parvovirus, Distemper, and Rabies are all fatal.  If we were to stop vaccinations for these rarely seen diseases, recurrence in the naïve population would be seen again. Puppies may also be vaccinated against Coronavirus, but this diarrhea virus is usually mild, and is rarely seen in adult dogs, so many clinics do not use it, although it is wise for shelters/rescues to continue to booster against it.

There are good arguments for making Canine Influenza, Lyme disease, and Leptospirosis vaccines necessary for all dogs, but so far they are considered non-core vaccines, and most veterinarians use these as the individual pet’s risk indicates.

Common Sense and Socialization

Everyone is excited to show off their new family member.  But puppy adopters must remember that their puppy is not immune to these deadly viruses until 10 days after the end of the puppy vaccine series.  Thus, to avoid exposing your puppy to such risk, the safest thing to do is to avoid areas where lots of dogs congregate to play and eliminate.  The fact is, dog parks and public recreation areas, especially those with water sources where dogs can swim and wade, can be reservoirs of Parvovirus, Giardia, and intestinal parasites.  Although it is frustrating to stay away when you have a cute puppy to share with the world, you will have plenty of time to spend in dog parks for the rest of your pup’s life!

A complication in the not-completely-vaccinated puppy’s development is interaction with other dogs for proper socialization – this is how puppies learn to play and behave with other dogs. Socialization is integral to their becoming a well-rounded, friendly dog. The window of socialization is between 8 and 16 weeks of age – right when the puppy’s immune system is still developing.  Allowing  puppies to play with healthy, vaccinated adult dogs and puppies in your own yard or on uncontaminated grassy areas is totally fine.  Going to dog parks for socialization is not.  Walks on the sidewalk are ok to practice leash lessons, but I don’t recommend “nose-to-nose” greetings with passing dogs.  You never know if their owners keep them up to date on vaccines, or if that unfamiliar dog is going to snap at your puppy!

A Basic Plan of Action

Be sure to have your puppy examined by your veterinarian by 8 weeks of age – or as soon as possible after adoption – to begin (or continue) the vaccination series. (Don’t forget:  You should bring at least 2 stool samples during the puppy examination series to screen for and eliminate parasites, too!) You may opt to separate vaccines for different viruses by a week or two, allowing the immune system to recover between vaccines and possibly increasing efficacy/reducing lethargy, but it is not mandatory. I never give more than 2 injectable vaccines to a puppy at any one visit.  Ideally, each puppy would receive only 1 vaccine at a time, in case of vaccine reaction (you’d know which vaccine to avoid in the future), but this is not feasible for most schedules.  Modern vaccines rarely cause reactions today, but if you are concerned, you should consult your veterinarian.

For socialization, you may also enroll in a puppy class after your puppy has had its first 2 vaccinations (minimum) and be sure that any daycare or class requires that all dogs be vaccinated against kennel cough and Distemper/Parvo and Rabies.

What does leadership mean? Does it mean that I have to be dominant? I need alpha status, right? Shouldn’t I be walking in front to be in charge?

These are the kinds of questions that I discuss with every new client, specifically what it means for the owner and their dog. Leadership is not a ‘one-size-fits-all’ concept. How one owner leads their Yorkie may be entirely different than how one leads their Greyhound. This is because a dog’s personality, drives, and needs has an impact on what leadership obligations the owner should fill. An owner can achieve great canine leadership by understanding the theory behind it and worrying less about physically acting tougher than the dog. Suzanne Clothier send it best in her book Bones Would Rain From the Sky, “Real life with real animals is not rigidly linear, but a beautiful and fluid weave of understanding and reciprocity among the various members; authority is often not absolute but rather highly situational.”

I define canine leadership as the ability to mitigate your dog’s decisions to a short, few acceptable ones through positive communication and guidance. A good leader understands the dog’s situation and gives him direction about what to do next. The leadership must be consistent and benevolent.

Let’s look at taking a dog for a walk. In the first few seconds out the door the dog is thinking: whats that smell? where did that noise come from? Is that a cookie on the ground?

A good leader will give the dog just as much information about what to do in that moment as the dog is reading from his environment. It may be to sit still, or it may be to go sniff and pee on the tree. If the owner does nothing, then the dog will assume he is left to make his own decisions. These doggy decisions usually include some combination of the following: should I eat it, pee on it, play with it, hump it, bite it or sleep on it? Clearly, these types of decisions are natural to a dog, but often may not be what we want them to do.

Let’s not confuse good leadership with intimidation. Leadership through intimidation is a dangerous course. Intimidating a dog is an unhealthy relationship and is doing more to break the human-animal bond than to build it up. Physically placing a dog on its side, grabbing its scruff or hitting it over its nose are not actions of leadership. They are actions of anger and frustration.

Now to clarify, leadership is a 24/7 job. That’s dog ownership! However, when my dogs are really “off-the-clock” I let them know. My cue that marks free time is, Go Sniff. This means my dog can be free to make their doggy decisions. I have heard the following words that refer to a dog’s free time: All Done, Patrol, Playtime, OK! and Release.

If you are interested in expanding your Canine Leadership, KissAble Canine can help. We service the Washington, DC area. For details and more information about services check us out online at www.KissAbleCanine.com or call us at 703-574-3383. And come find us on Facebook!

There are many devices available on the market to deter pulling. For most dogs I recommend using a standard buckle collar. If your dog is a serious puller, I will recommend a front clip harness. This harness requires no adjustment time (as head halters often do) and reduces the leverage needed to pull. The dogs can no longer use their body weight to drag you down the street. If your dog can “Houdini” out of collars or harnesses, you can try a limited slip or “martingale” style collar. It fits looser than a standard collar, but will tighten just enough if they attempt to back out that it will get caught behind their ears. These are often used by owners of Greyhounds, Shepherds, or any dog whose neck is as wide as their head.

Consistency, a few tasty treats, and a little patience are the most important tools needed. If your dog has ever pulled you and got to go where it wanted to go, your dog learned that pulling works. Dogs also have an opposition reflex; if you pull on your dog, your dog will automatically pull back. We must retrain your dog to pay attention to you, and you will both be rewarded with a pleasant walk.

Some dogs start getting a little nutty as soon as they see the leash. As you reach for the leash, ask your dog to sit. If your dog refuses (ask only once!) put down the leash, and walk away. Wait five seconds, come back to your dog, and ask for a sit again. If your dog complies, attach the leash. If not, repeat walking away. You are teaching your dog silly behavior gets them nowhere, but calmly following your cue gets them what they want.

Step out of your house. Chances are your dog is already starting to pull! There are two techniques you will practice. The first technique is called “being a tree.” If your dog pulls, do not move. Say your dog’s name to get his/ her attention. If you get any looseness in the leash, say “good dog!”, and try to start walking again. If your dog pulls again, stop moving again, repeating the technique. Your dog will learn the only way he or she will get anywhere is when there is looseness in the leash.

The second technique is changing directions. In this technique, if your dog starts forging ahead, say your dog’s name, turn in the opposite direction, and walk in that direction. There will be slight tension in the leash, but your dog will turn around and come back to you. As you dog catches up to you, say “good dog!” and attempt to continue walking. In both techniques, you are only saying your dog’s name and “good dog.” We want to catch your dog doing well. Adding in extra commands (e.g. “let’s go, let’s walk”) will tell your dog to only walk politely when they hear those words.

I mentioned bringing a few treats. We do not want your dog reliant on treats, but if you say your dog’s name and he or she gives you eye contact and has a loose leash, reward that behavior!

I do not recommend correction- based devices such as choke chains or prong collars.  While some dogs will respond to these devices, some will ignore them, and keep yanking on you. More sensitive dogs may develop a correlation between painful corrections to their neck with what they see. (When your dog tried to say hello to that other dog, they got a horrible pinch to their neck thus associating other dogs with making bad things happen.) Many leash aggressive dogs I have worked with had training histories involving these collars.

I hope utilizing these techniques will help you and your dog enjoy some much deserved quality time together.

Happy walking!

Prevention: The Proactive Approach to Separation Anxiety

Rescue dogs and separation anxiety are like 2 peas in a pod, and it’s no wonder this was the topic of choice for Lucky Dog’s first published newsletter. This type of anxiety is absolutely heart wrenching and is often quite difficult for new dog owners or fosters to deal with. Separation anxiety can develop in dogs who:

• have not spent much time alone

• have been abandoned during crucial points in their behavioral development

• were removed from their mother and litter mates too early or too late

• have endured a traumatic or frightening experience

• had significant change to their household environment

• may have a genetic predisposition

Sound familiar? Rather than discussing how to deal with separation anxiety, I would like to take the approach of identifying what it is and discuss prevention. Your behavior as a new dog owner or foster can have significant influence over your dog’s behavior as they settle into their new home. Proactively setting your dog up for success is key to separation anxiety prevention. Let’s talk nuts and bolts, so what is separation anxiety?

Simply put, true separation anxiety is a display of panic behaviors and symptoms in response to being left alone. Common distress symptoms include scratching and digging around entry and exit ways such as doors and windows in an attempt to escape and find their owner, chewing inappropriate objects in attempts to relive anxiety, distress vocalizations such as barking, whining, and howling in attempt to summon their owner, excessive salivation, excessive self-grooming, and sometimes even urination and defecation. Additionally, dogs may also show high arousal when their owner arrives home after being left even for a short period, show distress when owner is preparing to depart the house, and is excessively clingy to their owner while they are home and follows them from room to room.

With all that being said, I do have some good news. First, true clinical separation anxiety is rare and misdiagnosis is common. Second, you can do something to help prevent it! Please keep in mind that these suggestions are made in a perfect world and sometimes life can get in the way. Modify these tips to fit the perimeters of your lifestyle and put them to work for you.

• Take time off from work or other obligations to get to know your new dog. Take advantage of the weekend and adopt or pick up a new foster during this time. In an ideal situation, 5 days would be a good amount of time to devote to building a relationship and foundation with your dog. This time should be spent encouraging independence, building confidence, creating a safe place, and practicing random departures.

• Your dog should become accustomed to being separated from you when you are home for varying lengths of time and different times of the day. You can encourage this independence by minimizing the extent in which the dog follows you from room to room. Start with baby gates to keep your dog confined to certain areas of the house while you watch TV, read, or fold laundry in another room. Make it more challenging by switching to closed doors and longer durations of separated time. Other options include using a tether or teaching a sit-stay or down-stay.

• Create a safe space for your dog. Often having full run of the house is overwhelming and can lead to anxiety. Use baby gates, a designated area, or crate to signify to the dog that this is their area. Build a positive association with this area by feeding all meals here, conducting training sessions, and spending time in this area. Additionally, you can teach a go to place behavior which can be used to send your dog somewhere specific like to their crate, an area rug, or dog bed.

• Build confidence by enrolling in dog training classes and finding dog sports such as agility that they would enjoy. Teaching basic obedience is a great place to start. Establish consistent communication to teach household rules. That way the dog will know what is expected of him and will feel confident.

• Establish an exercise routine that provides both physical exercise and mental stimulation. There is truth in the saying “a tired good is a good dog.” Exercise helps to dissipate anxiety and is a constructive interaction between you and your dog. Teaching your dog to play fetch is a great way to burn a ton of energy in a relatively short amount of time. Use puzzle games to engage your dog’s mind and provide stuffed kongs and marrow bones that will make your dog work to get the treat. This chewing behavior is also self soothing and will help reduce stress (think squeeze ball on your desk).

• Ignore all attention seeking behaviors such as barking, whining, or pawing at you. These are done in attempts to get your attention. Attention is in the eyes of the beholder, sometimes our attempts to punish this annoying behavior are rewarding to the dog and will increase in frequency. Giving attention in this manner, also fosters the dog’s dependence on you and will increase his anxiety in your absence.

• Practice random departures. Start off with very short durations of time gradually increasing the length of time you are absent. Repeat you departures 50-100 times per day for several days to weeks so that the dog becomes desensitized to your leaving. Once you are able to build up to several minutes, you can provide a special stuffed kong to keep you dog occupied while you leave. Only use this special kong for your departures and soon your dog will learn to love it when you’re gone (but don’t let that hurt your feelings).

These prevention tips will go a long way, however if your dog is already exhibiting signs of separation anxiety it is best if you work with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist. There are many details that must be captured to determine the right course of action. Although the ideas behind modifying the behavior are the same, it requires a personalized approach that will work for you and your dog!

Heather Morris, CPDT-KA, is the owner of Spot On Training and lives on Capitol Hill. Spot On Training offers phone consultations, private training sessions, behavior problem solving, and mini series targeted on specific behaviors. To learn more visit www.spotondogtrainingdc.com or email heather@spotondogtrainingdc.com

Here are a few tips to ensure that you, your dog, and everyone else has an enjoyable time.

Water.  The crisp, spring temperatures my be comfortable for you, however it may be a little on the hot side for your companion wearing a fur coat.  Watch for signs of overheating and have cool drinking water for your canine at all times.  Most pet events will provide water, but its always a good idea to carry some just in case.

On Leash Greetings.  If you have a dog-friendly dog, pet events are a great opportunity for socialization.  Be sure to keep the leash very loose when allowing two dogs to greet one another.  The tension in a tight leash will travel down into the dog possibly giving him reason to worry.  The way you hold the leash can influence the outcome of a greeting-keep it loose and happy when saying hello!

Observe Your Dog.  It is very important that both you and your dog enjoy the event.  Watch your dog’s body language to ensure he is having a positive experience.  Remember this is how he communicates to you!  Watch for signs of stress and anxiety.  Not all dogs enjoy large crowds, loud noises,   kids happily screaming and running around, etc.  Signs of stress include a stiff body, yawning, tongue flicking (like a snake), tail tucked, avoidance of eye contact, heavy shedding, heavy panting (when otherwise they shouldn’t be hot), etc.  If your dog is stressed, it’s time to call it a day and head home.

Enjoy the spring and check out LDAR upcoming events!

Bringing a new dog into the family is an exciting time for the human “pack” members, but can create stress for the non-human pack—whether dog (both new dog and resident dog), cat, bird, or other small pet. Understanding how to manage pet introductions can help ensure a lifetime of harmony for everyone.

General tips:

• Set reasonable goals when you bring a new dog into your pack. Knowing the dogs’ backgrounds as to how well they were socialized will help you manage what might happen. Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.
• Proceed slowly and calmly. Slow-paced introductions may help prevent any fear-based or aggressive reactions from developing. If bad behaviors are not reined in from the start, they can become habit and be very hard to change in the future.
• Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged. When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times. The situation can change suddenly.
• If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.
• Stay in control of the introduction. If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe.Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.

Dog to Dog
Before you bring the new dog (or puppy) home, bring home his scent so your resident pets can be introduced to his smell first. Rub the new dog with a cloth or use a blanket he has slept on and bring it into your home and place it where he will be sleeping.

In addition, be sure both your resident dog and the new dog are up to date on their vaccinations to avoid any risk of infection.

Introduce in a Neutral Location
Introduce the dogs in a neutral location that is unfamiliar to both dogs, such as a park. This prevents your resident dog from feeling his territory is being threatened.

Each dog should be on a loosely held six-foot leash and handled by a separate person. Try to stay relaxed so the dogs don’t pick up on any tension you might be feeling.

Don’t force an interaction between the dogs. Just walk near each other for a few minutes. One or both of the dogs may ignore each other, which is fine. Just stay upbeat and give the dogs time to get comfortable with the situation.

Now, allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few seconds, with the handlers offering high-pitched, happy praise if there are positive signs from the dogs. Then lead the dogs away from each other. Do several more sets of brief introductions, which prevent the dogs from focusing too hard and escalating to an aggressive response. Refocus each dog’s attention with obedience commands or short walks.

There are two goals with this exercise:

1. To allow the dogs to meet and be tolerant of one another without exhibiting any bad behavior.
2. To keep the meetings pleasant and friendly so the dogs learn to associate good, relaxed things with being together
   

Watch the dogs’ body language. Things are going well and you can proceed to the next step if you see:

• Loose body movements and muscles
• Relaxed open mouths
• Play bows or other playful posturing

However, take caution if you see:

• Stiff, slow body movements
• Hair standing up on the back
• Tensed mouth or teeth-baring
• Growls
• Prolonged staring

If you see any of these types of reactions, quickly lead the dogs away from each other and try to get them to focus on you. Then you can try a very brief introduction again, at a further distance. Only proceed to the next step when you see the dogs are tolerating each other.

Managing the New Dog in Your Home
Pick up all pet toys, food bowls, beds and the like before you bring the new dog into the house to prevent any tiffs over prized possessions. You can return the resident dog’s toys to him in a few weeks, and give the new dogs some new toys of his own. In the meantime, give the dogs toys only when they are in separate areas or their crates.

When you bring the new dog home, put your current pets in a separate area of your home; then, walk the new dog around your home on a leash to show him where he will sleep and eat, where the other pets sleep and eat, etc.

Establish boundaries in your home by using baby gates and closing off rooms and areas while all the pets acclimate to the new situation. This way they can see and get used to one another. Allow the resident dog to roam the house, while confining the new dog behind a barrier at first.

Keep the resident dog’s areas for sleeping and eating separate so he doesn’t feel his territory is being threatened. Feed the dogs in separate areas, and pick up their food bowls after feeding time is done. Keep the dogs confined in separate areas of your home any time you are away or can’t watch them.

While your dogs may enjoy each other as playmates, supervise their play to prevent them from getting over excited, which can lead to injury of one or both dogs. Interrupt their play if one dog begins to bully or growl at the other, and separate them for a few minutes. Praise them when they are playing well together.

Remember to devote plenty of time to each dog individually for both training and play. If one dog is much older or less energetic than the other, be sure you give him time and space to himself so he can rest and feel secure.
Dog to Cat

The prey drive in some dogs is exceptionally strong. In order to ensure your cat or other small pets stay safe, you must get your dog to look to you as his leader so that his desire to please you overcomes his desire to chase another pet.

As with a dog-to-dog introduction, take things slowly, calmly and cautiously. If you can, bring home an item with the new dog’s scent on it so the cat can learn about the dog through his smell first. Plan to place the cat’s things somewhere the dog can’t reach (such as up high) and be sure there is always an escape route so the cat can get away from the dog and feel safe.

While holding the dog on a loose leash, at first allow the dog and cat to see each other. If you fear the dog may get away from you quickly and hurt the cat, use a muzzle if necessary.

With the dog in a down-stay, let the cat wander and come to the dog, if she chooses, for a sniff. Then call the dog away to get him to redirect his attention from the cat, and then allow them to greet again.

Remember, you also need to keep the cat from getting afraid and then running away, which will only trigger the dog’s desire to chase. If the dog begins to fixate on the cat or lunges to get at it, quickly give him a command or just lead him away from the area for a few minutes.

Your goal is to help the animals learn to trust each other, as you yourself work on building a relationship of trust and leadership with the new dog.

In the meantime, don’t allow your dog to chase any type of small animal, but do let him chase a ball or other appropriate toys.

If your dog begins to chase the cat, do not run after the dog. Instead, try to get his attention with a loud hand clap or command (“Leave it!”), or even a shake of his dog food bin. Redirect his behavior so you can leash him and allow the cat to get to a safe place.

Dog to Other Small Pets
If you are not sure of your dog’s background with regard to being around small pets, plan the introductions carefully to avoid risk of the pet being harmed. Introduce the animals as you would dog to cat. If you must hold the animal in your arms, take care not to let the dog to get too close. Just let them sniff each other’s scent and learn to tolerate one another’s presence.

Some dogs get jealous if they see a small pet such as a hamster or bird perched on your shoulder. The dog may see this as an unfair advantage and therefore feel challenged and want to harm the pet. Other dogs, however, may be totally accepting of the pet and its perceived higher status.

Always keep small pets in a secure, sturdy cage out of the dog’s reach, and always supervise your dog even when the pet is caged. When you’re away from home, do not allow your dog to be loose in the same area as the caged pet.

Puppies to Adult Dogs
Not all resident dogs will welcome a new puppy into the home. Puppies are notorious for looking for attention from adult dogs (and everyone else), and so must be supervised when they are with other animals. Very young pups may not pick up on an adult dog’s body language that says he’s had enough playing. A well-socialized adult dog may growl to tell the pup to back off, which is appropriate behavior that helps the puppy learn boundaries.

However, an adult dog with poor social skills may present a danger to the puppy, as he may only know to bite rather than growl. Thus, do not leave the dog and puppy alone together.

Respect the adult dog’s need for puppy-free quiet time, and be sure to spend one-on-one time with him as well.

Handle the puppy-to-dog introduction as you would between dogs. Keep both animals leashed, carefully watch their body language, allow brief sniffs, and offer praise when they behave well.

Know When to Get Help
People keep household pets because they enjoy their antics and companionship. However, if your dog doesn’t get along with other pets, this only creates tension and disharmony in your home.

A qualified dog trainer such as a Bark Busters Dog Behavioral Therapist can help resolve conflicts your dog may be having with other pets, and can provide ways to help you live in a peaceful, happy household of pets and people.