Thanks to a VERY generous Lucky Dog supporter, all donations received by August 15th, 2010 will be matched dollar for dollar!*

That means a gift of $25 will be doubled to $50, and a gift of $35 will actually mean $70, or if you can contribute $50, this will mean Lucky Dog Animal Rescue will receive an especially generous $100 towards a lucky dog’s rescue, care, and adoption.

This is especially important because we are planning for our next transport on August 21st.  Lots of potential Lucky Dogs are sitting in shelters waiting to hear whether they will be on the transport!  Please help us save them!  Donate now!

*Donations up to $4,000 will be fully matched.

Nothing beats the joy of seeing a “new puppy visit” on the schedule at our clinic. During these visits, new parents to puppies often have lots of questions to make sure they are doing everything just right for their new puppy. Often overlooked is the topic of infectious diseases and what we can do to protect puppies from becoming sick. One of the new trends today seems to be a “less is more” approach to vaccinations, but in the case of puppy vaccines, skipping vaccine boosters may result in inadequate immunity to a number of viruses and even possibly death.

How Vaccinal Immunity Works

Maternal milk from the first days of nursing offers protection via antibodies from the mother dog’s immune system for up to 4 months, but after this the puppy is only protected by vaccines or by natural exposure (and recovery from) viruses and bacteria. Vaccines given prior to 8 weeks of age are typically rendered ineffective by the puppy’s circulating maternal antibodies.  Because shelters often find puppies without their mothers and without any knowledge of prior vet history, they usually give the first puppy booster as soon as the puppy arrives at the shelter – sometimes as early as 6 weeks of age.  They are then given at 2 to 3 week intervals by the shelter, rescue and, eventually, the new owners’ veterinarian.  It is important that the vaccines be given in a series of at least 3 boosters (usually about 3 to 4 weeks apart), as repeated exposure to these pathogens builds the immune system.  The immune system is naïve initially, but should be mature by the time the vaccine series is finished, so a good response to the vaccines will result in complete protection.

Core Vaccination Protocols

Core vaccines are those which the veterinary community in that region has deemed basic and necessary to prevent disease outbreaks. Other vaccines may be “elective” in nature, and these elective vaccines are usually against rarely seen or non-fatal diseases. In our area, Distemper, Parvovirus, Hepatitis/Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza Virus, Bordetella Bronchiseptica/Kennel Cough, and Rabies are undoubtedly core vaccines.  We vaccinate against them even though they are less common these days because  kennel cough is extremely contagious, Parvovirus can live in the environment for a very long time, and Parvovirus, Distemper, and Rabies are all fatal.  If we were to stop vaccinations for these rarely seen diseases, recurrence in the naïve population would be seen again. Puppies may also be vaccinated against Coronavirus, but this diarrhea virus is usually mild, and is rarely seen in adult dogs, so many clinics do not use it, although it is wise for shelters/rescues to continue to booster against it.

There are good arguments for making Canine Influenza, Lyme disease, and Leptospirosis vaccines necessary for all dogs, but so far they are considered non-core vaccines, and most veterinarians use these as the individual pet’s risk indicates.

Common Sense and Socialization

Everyone is excited to show off their new family member.  But puppy adopters must remember that their puppy is not immune to these deadly viruses until 10 days after the end of the puppy vaccine series.  Thus, to avoid exposing your puppy to such risk, the safest thing to do is to avoid areas where lots of dogs congregate to play and eliminate.  The fact is, dog parks and public recreation areas, especially those with water sources where dogs can swim and wade, can be reservoirs of Parvovirus, Giardia, and intestinal parasites.  Although it is frustrating to stay away when you have a cute puppy to share with the world, you will have plenty of time to spend in dog parks for the rest of your pup’s life!

A complication in the not-completely-vaccinated puppy’s development is interaction with other dogs for proper socialization – this is how puppies learn to play and behave with other dogs. Socialization is integral to their becoming a well-rounded, friendly dog. The window of socialization is between 8 and 16 weeks of age – right when the puppy’s immune system is still developing.  Allowing  puppies to play with healthy, vaccinated adult dogs and puppies in your own yard or on uncontaminated grassy areas is totally fine.  Going to dog parks for socialization is not.  Walks on the sidewalk are ok to practice leash lessons, but I don’t recommend “nose-to-nose” greetings with passing dogs.  You never know if their owners keep them up to date on vaccines, or if that unfamiliar dog is going to snap at your puppy!

A Basic Plan of Action

Be sure to have your puppy examined by your veterinarian by 8 weeks of age – or as soon as possible after adoption – to begin (or continue) the vaccination series. (Don’t forget:  You should bring at least 2 stool samples during the puppy examination series to screen for and eliminate parasites, too!) You may opt to separate vaccines for different viruses by a week or two, allowing the immune system to recover between vaccines and possibly increasing efficacy/reducing lethargy, but it is not mandatory. I never give more than 2 injectable vaccines to a puppy at any one visit.  Ideally, each puppy would receive only 1 vaccine at a time, in case of vaccine reaction (you’d know which vaccine to avoid in the future), but this is not feasible for most schedules.  Modern vaccines rarely cause reactions today, but if you are concerned, you should consult your veterinarian.

For socialization, you may also enroll in a puppy class after your puppy has had its first 2 vaccinations (minimum) and be sure that any daycare or class requires that all dogs be vaccinated against kennel cough and Distemper/Parvo and Rabies.

What does leadership mean? Does it mean that I have to be dominant? I need alpha status, right? Shouldn’t I be walking in front to be in charge?

These are the kinds of questions that I discuss with every new client, specifically what it means for the owner and their dog. Leadership is not a ‘one-size-fits-all’ concept. How one owner leads their Yorkie may be entirely different than how one leads their Greyhound. This is because a dog’s personality, drives, and needs has an impact on what leadership obligations the owner should fill. An owner can achieve great canine leadership by understanding the theory behind it and worrying less about physically acting tougher than the dog. Suzanne Clothier send it best in her book Bones Would Rain From the Sky, “Real life with real animals is not rigidly linear, but a beautiful and fluid weave of understanding and reciprocity among the various members; authority is often not absolute but rather highly situational.”

I define canine leadership as the ability to mitigate your dog’s decisions to a short, few acceptable ones through positive communication and guidance. A good leader understands the dog’s situation and gives him direction about what to do next. The leadership must be consistent and benevolent.

Let’s look at taking a dog for a walk. In the first few seconds out the door the dog is thinking: whats that smell? where did that noise come from? Is that a cookie on the ground?

A good leader will give the dog just as much information about what to do in that moment as the dog is reading from his environment. It may be to sit still, or it may be to go sniff and pee on the tree. If the owner does nothing, then the dog will assume he is left to make his own decisions. These doggy decisions usually include some combination of the following: should I eat it, pee on it, play with it, hump it, bite it or sleep on it? Clearly, these types of decisions are natural to a dog, but often may not be what we want them to do.

Let’s not confuse good leadership with intimidation. Leadership through intimidation is a dangerous course. Intimidating a dog is an unhealthy relationship and is doing more to break the human-animal bond than to build it up. Physically placing a dog on its side, grabbing its scruff or hitting it over its nose are not actions of leadership. They are actions of anger and frustration.

Now to clarify, leadership is a 24/7 job. That’s dog ownership! However, when my dogs are really “off-the-clock” I let them know. My cue that marks free time is, Go Sniff. This means my dog can be free to make their doggy decisions. I have heard the following words that refer to a dog’s free time: All Done, Patrol, Playtime, OK! and Release.

If you are interested in expanding your Canine Leadership, KissAble Canine can help. We service the Washington, DC area. For details and more information about services check us out online at www.KissAbleCanine.com or call us at 703-574-3383. And come find us on Facebook!

Now through the end of the summer, all money raised through Walter Rescue will go toward helping Lucky Dog Animal Rescue’s wonder dog Bogey.

Bogey was shot and needed to have his leg amputated, but Lucky Dog gave him a second chance. We are thrilled that he will be attending the Walter Rescue Benefit BBQ in Baltimore this Saturday with his new family. If  you can’t make the BBQ, please visit our Web site, www.walterrescue.org, to see pictures. You may also want to consider buying one of our snazzy T-shirts, available here: http://www.walterrescue.org/walter-t-shirt.

Walter Rescue was created to help groups like Lucky Dog who have animals with major medical needs. While we occasionally handle individual animals who need homes, our focus is allow rescue groups to focus on finding “forever homes” and lessening the stress of paying the veterinary bills. Walter Rescue was created in honor of Walter, a dehydrated pit bill who was left at Sinai Hospital with bite wounds. Through the support of people like yourself, Walter made a full recovery and was adopted, but he continues to be our mascot. You can read about our other success stories in the attachment.

If you live in the Baltimore area and want to attend the BBQ, e-mail Elizabeth at elizabeth@ejtown.org

There are many devices available on the market to deter pulling. For most dogs I recommend using a standard buckle collar. If your dog is a serious puller, I will recommend a front clip harness. This harness requires no adjustment time (as head halters often do) and reduces the leverage needed to pull. The dogs can no longer use their body weight to drag you down the street. If your dog can “Houdini” out of collars or harnesses, you can try a limited slip or “martingale” style collar. It fits looser than a standard collar, but will tighten just enough if they attempt to back out that it will get caught behind their ears. These are often used by owners of Greyhounds, Shepherds, or any dog whose neck is as wide as their head.

Consistency, a few tasty treats, and a little patience are the most important tools needed. If your dog has ever pulled you and got to go where it wanted to go, your dog learned that pulling works. Dogs also have an opposition reflex; if you pull on your dog, your dog will automatically pull back. We must retrain your dog to pay attention to you, and you will both be rewarded with a pleasant walk.

Some dogs start getting a little nutty as soon as they see the leash. As you reach for the leash, ask your dog to sit. If your dog refuses (ask only once!) put down the leash, and walk away. Wait five seconds, come back to your dog, and ask for a sit again. If your dog complies, attach the leash. If not, repeat walking away. You are teaching your dog silly behavior gets them nowhere, but calmly following your cue gets them what they want.

Step out of your house. Chances are your dog is already starting to pull! There are two techniques you will practice. The first technique is called “being a tree.” If your dog pulls, do not move. Say your dog’s name to get his/ her attention. If you get any looseness in the leash, say “good dog!”, and try to start walking again. If your dog pulls again, stop moving again, repeating the technique. Your dog will learn the only way he or she will get anywhere is when there is looseness in the leash.

The second technique is changing directions. In this technique, if your dog starts forging ahead, say your dog’s name, turn in the opposite direction, and walk in that direction. There will be slight tension in the leash, but your dog will turn around and come back to you. As you dog catches up to you, say “good dog!” and attempt to continue walking. In both techniques, you are only saying your dog’s name and “good dog.” We want to catch your dog doing well. Adding in extra commands (e.g. “let’s go, let’s walk”) will tell your dog to only walk politely when they hear those words.

I mentioned bringing a few treats. We do not want your dog reliant on treats, but if you say your dog’s name and he or she gives you eye contact and has a loose leash, reward that behavior!

I do not recommend correction- based devices such as choke chains or prong collars.  While some dogs will respond to these devices, some will ignore them, and keep yanking on you. More sensitive dogs may develop a correlation between painful corrections to their neck with what they see. (When your dog tried to say hello to that other dog, they got a horrible pinch to their neck thus associating other dogs with making bad things happen.) Many leash aggressive dogs I have worked with had training histories involving these collars.

I hope utilizing these techniques will help you and your dog enjoy some much deserved quality time together.

Happy walking!

She is now playing and running happily and without pain! Read more about her at http://helpoutlucy.blogspot.com

Want to help with Lucy’s recovery? Donate today to her recovery fund!

Introducing her to new experiences and helping her conquer her fears is very rewarding. Giving her a second chance at life after she was rescued from a high kill shelter makes this experience even greater. We could not be more grateful to Lucky Dog Animal Rescue and the many volunteers who make it such a success.

We are very lucky to have found Stella, and we hope that many more adopters will experience the same joy Stella has brought us.

David Miranda and Pam Hartka

I worked with an adoption coordinator who located the perfect dog for our family. She made sure that our pup would have a good temperament and would get along with small dogs. I picked up Quincy (previously Brutus) 4 days later and welcomed him into our home. He is the most obedient, well behaved, good mannered puppy one could ever ask for. I knew once I saw his face that he was a party of our family. He adapted to our dogs and our family instantly.

Our family feels more complete because of Lucky Dog Rescue. They helped us locate the perfect dog! What a difference Lucky Dog as made for us. As our journey continues in life to give dogs a second chance at life- we would highly recommend working with Lucky Dog Rescue.

With Love,

The Bross Family Tom, Kandice, Frankie, Tootsie, Benjamin and Quincy

Little Rocco is just so happy!   Loves to play with his brother and two sisters.   He has toys from one end of the house to the other.   Loves to take walks and sleep right in the middle of mommy and daddy.

Thank you so much Lucky Dog for another incredible dog.

Sherry

Lucky Dog received a desperate email from Franklin County about Kazoo. One of the shelter workers had spent some time with him. Though he was scared at first, he warmed up quickly with a treat and a small amount of affection. It turns out he was starving in more ways than one!

Kazoo was literally an hour away from being put to sleep. His time was up, and Lucky Dog was his only hope. So, trusting the word of our shelter partner, we agreed to bring Kazoo to DC. He arrived on a Saturday and happily went to his foster home. It was there a bit of a limp was noticed.

After observing him the first night, Kazoo’s foster realized he was definitely in pain. His limp was growing more pronounced. So, off he went to see Dr. Smith at Hayfield Animal Hospital. The news was encouraging . . . yet staggering at the same time. Kazoo has what is called a “luxating patella.” That means the patella is unstable and doesnt sit in its groove. Although the condition is totally fixable, the fix requires surgery!!

The very next day, Kazoo went to see Dr. Norton, a surgeon at Southpaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center. Dr. Norton confirmed the diagnosis. Kazoo was in need of surgery. Although Kazoo was not facing an emergency situation, Dr Norton agreed that doing surgery sooner rather than later would help ease Kazoo’s pain. He had an opening the following day, and Kazoo was scheduled!

Keep up with Kazoo’s progress on his blog: http://kazoosurgery.blogspot.com/

Contribute to Kazoo’s surgery fund: